Welcome to the Jungle

In my last entry, I thought I would have no more opportunities to send updates, but surprisingly I have an opportunity in Pucallpa to send one last high-speed update before heading beyond the reach of the Internet.

Pucallpa looks pretty much like what you would expect a jungle town to look like. If one doesn't look at the faces of the people, it could be in Thailand or Brazil or Vietnam or Malaysia. Huge and alien green plants grow everywhere where they haven't already been chopped down. Three-wheeled motorized rickshaws with motorcycle front ends and benches in the rear are the main form of transportation, except for the motorcycles with whole families crammed on to them.

When we flew into the airport, the weather was stifling, and people were ripping off their clothes before we even exited the plane. The temperature is only 85 degrees, but with the everpresent humidity it feels oppressively hot. I have been sweating ever since I got off the plane.

Our Pucallpa hosts met us at the airport with taxis and took us back to the house where we will be spending the night. We had a meal of chicken, rice and vegetables, and then most of us split into small groups and headed into town or to the market.

The market sells most staples one would expect, but also there are stands with merchandise that is hard to imagine many people want. There are stands that specialize in plastic flower leis, for instance. I found a pair of tall rubber boots for snake protection, and some rope to tie up my belongings to dry or to keep my bags away from the ants that will inevitably invade my tombo.

The noise of the mototaxis and the cacauphony of music and yelling create a feeling of tension. The smoke from the vehicles and restaurants combine with the dust to create a haze that the sun filters through in amber hues. The streets are bordered by gutters several feet deep in places, giving an idea how much rain must fall here during the rainy season. Many of the houses are built on four foot stilts for the same reason.

The people in this part of the country look different from the denizens of Lima and Cusco. Their features are less pronounced and sharp, and their cheeks fuller. Despite the abject poverty, the people here smile a lot, and the older people have smile lines carved deep into their dark faces.

Tomorrow we will get up early to head into the jungle, where I certainly won't have Internet.